Day 4 - Foncebadón to Ponferrada

22 September 2018

19.7 miles in 8 hours 12 minutes (including breaks)

We left the little village of Foncebadón high in the mountains and started our long descent through forest trails and rocky paths toward our destination of Ponferrada. We were glad we had picked up trekking poles the night before to help us down the often tricky and tough sections. 

Beautiful mountain scenes and fresh air helped us manage today's very tough journey. This was our longest day so far, and we were dead tired by the time we reached our hotel.

As luck would have it, our hotel is right next to a massive Knights Templar castle and fortress. A battle reenactment was underway with knights in armor and sword fighting and cannons firing. What a fun way to end a long day!

Tomorrow we are taking a rest/recovery day here in Ponferrada to see the castle and give our legs a break.

Our jouney started high in the mountains (4,800 ft. elevation).

We passed by ruins of churches and pilgrim hostels built over a thousand years ago.

Clear skies and cool mountain temperatures made for an easy journey (at first).

An hour into the journey, we arrived at 'Cruz de Ferro' (Cross of Iron), an ancient site where pilgrims have left rocks over the centuries that they brought with them that represent their pains, sorrows, and burdens. Leaving the rocks at the base of the cross figuratively (and literally) relieves the load to carry on the Camino and for the rest of your life.

Like the other pilgrims, we also left our stones we had brought with us from home.

This is the map recorded on my cell phone for today's journey. This view shows the tough terrain we crossed.

Stones, rocks, and boulders made this leg of the journey especially painful.

Windmills on mountain ridges thoughout the region provide power for the towns below.

People from thoughout the world walk the Camino de Santiago. A Catholic priest from Australia named Richard walked with us for several miles. He helped me improve my use of the trekking poles on our way down the mountain.

Robyn (left, a new friend from Australia), Sandy (right), and Richard as we head toward Ponferrada in the valley ahead. This steep, rocky, and tough trail went on for 9 miles of downhill torture!

Passing through the village of Riego de Ambrós. Most of these ancient home had balconies overlooking the main cobblestone road.

Homes down the road in Molinaseca decked out in the last flowers of the season. Winters here are typically very cold, so flowers celebrate the growing season while it lasts.

We took a break near this Roman-built bridge in Molinaseca at the 15-mile point. We soaked our burning feet in the cold water.

It is hard to tell where the bridge ends and the reflection begins. 

Our walk continued through the narrow medieval streets of Molinaseca as we plodded on toward Ponferrada. 

We finally arrived at our hotel in Ponferrada to find a battle reenactment taking place.

Our hotel was right next to the castle of the Knights Templar. Crowds were gathered to watch the reenactment with knights in their armor. 

Being entertained by the reenactment was a great way to end a very long day. Tomorrow is our rest day here in Ponferrada where we can recharge for the journey ahead.

Progress Map